|
Post by jimmn on Jul 19, 2019 18:52:25 GMT
Armies in Plastic has a set of White Army figures. After glancing at pictures of both the White Army and the Red Army, i have concluded that these figures could be divided between the two sides, just by painting them differently. In fact, given the large degree of variation in uniforms, along with fading and other wear during that nasty war, we are free to paint each figure a little differently. Browns, grays, tans, blues, reds, whites, and of course the Commissar‘s black leather coat are all legitimate.
|
|
|
Post by leswhite on Jul 20, 2019 9:23:23 GMT
That's how these figures were designed, half of the set wear the peakless cap and half have the peaked cap, both types were used by both sides. You will also find that there are extra figures in this set, the box states 20 figures but you normally get 24 - 6 poses X 2 in each type of cap in similar poses - Standing and kneeling firing, advancing charging, etc plus two different officers. So with one box you can field 2 units, one for each side. One quick headswap gets you a Junior and senior Officer too! The WHITE ones are representing the Russians during the Boxer Rebellion which are normally illustrated wearing white Shirts/Caps and Green trousers. DARK GREEN - Russo Japanese uniform. TAN - WW1 to represent Khaki. RCW - LIGHT GREEN and RED to represent the colourful uniforms used. The figures are of course ALL the same in each set it's only the colour that changes. You will have a lot of leeway in painting these, as you say , could be quite a nice project to help you hone your painting skills. Have a look around the internet there are plenty of good illustrations of the variations of uniforms. The OSPREY Plates are shown which is the ones most people know about as their publications are normally the ones picked up first to get the basics of a new campaign/period before any in depth research is undertaken.
Here are some illustrations form a Russian web forum that show some of the variations of colours.
Note that even the AIP Cossacks can be painted in various colour schemes - GRAY, BROWN, LIGHT BROWN, BLACK, RED, etc. Head swaps with peaked caps on Egyptian Lancer bodies get you the Cossack in White shown here, next to the horses head. The left over fez heads can be used to create something else later on, so won't go to waste.
|
|
|
Post by jimmn on Jul 20, 2019 12:21:16 GMT
Les, those pictures are helpful. It looks like endless variety in color combinations was used. You will groan about this. Earlier this week I bit the bullet and went to a hobby store to buy better paint. Testors is a step up from the cheap stuff so I bought a $15 set. It was very difficult to work with; very sticky, thin, and did not clean up well. After two days I realized that I had accidentally grabbed a box of enamel paint. Sheesh. Oh well. Some people use enamel as primer. Maybe I can use them up that way.
|
|
|
Post by leswhite on Jul 20, 2019 22:21:36 GMT
Well it looks like you need to get to an optician and get some new spectacles I use reading glasses from 'POUNDLAND' for my close up work, it's equivalent to your DOLLAR STORES, 3.5 magnification for painting and 2.5 magnification for reading the computer screen, at these prices I have pairs dotted all over the place in various rooms and in jackets, I'm forever leaving the d*** things down and forgetting where I put them ! I've only used TESTORS paint once and I didn't like it at all. Did you remember to shake the pot vigorously before you opened it , this usually helps get a better consistency of product. Although enamel isn't the best on plastic it should work if the figure is undercoated with a spray primer, then a matt varnish applied as a top coat. It depends what 'look' you are going for, of course. I use Acrylics (water based which dries waterproof) exclusively, because I'm lazy and have no patience, they go on easily, dry quickly and the brushes clean with plain water. I can paint a single figure from top to bottom in as many colours as I want and by the time I close the pot lid on one colour and open another, the paint is dry ready for the next colour to be applied.
|
|
|
Post by jimmn on Jul 20, 2019 23:06:08 GMT
Yes, i prefer acrylics also. A lot. But i know they have to be sealed after painting.
|
|
|
Post by leswhite on Jul 21, 2019 22:55:35 GMT
If you are going to game with the figures then varnishing/sealing them is the simplest way to protect the paint, however Acrylic paints dry with an outer skin and once fully set are waterproof and will take reasonable handling. I've tried just protecting the figures head with a varnish/sealer , as you tend to pick them up that way and it worked fine. It may just be type of paint I use because it has a thick pigment or it may be that I use model paints and not artists paints, which I have never had good luck with. I haven't got around to varnishing any figures recently but I'll just do them as a batch someday in my home made spray booth, that's a cardboard box sitting in the bath
|
|
|
Post by jimmn on Jul 21, 2019 23:23:19 GMT
I dip my painted figures either in Pledge Glossy floor wax or polyeurothane varnish. The Poly gives the bright glossy look but it must be done outside due to the odor. I am not planning to use that any more. The floor polish is very light and cleans up easily. If i decide to touch up the paint work later, the floor polish does not deter me at all.
|
|
|
Post by leswhite on Jul 21, 2019 23:33:12 GMT
That's interesting, would never have thought of that. I did an experiment with selling fully painted toy soldier at TOY FAIRS and checked everything for child safety. I did quite well selling them to kids and their parents and used PLASTI-KOTE brand toy spray varnish, specifically developed for that purpose. I found it came out very glossy, which everyone liked and that if I completely sprayed the figure even under the base that once dry nothing would shift it, even if a figure was accidently dropped into a cup of tea (at my table) or accidently kicked round the floor by a exited buyer. Unfortunately being a US product, it was discontinued in the UK and I haven't found an equivalent.
|
|
|
Post by jimmn on Jul 22, 2019 0:10:35 GMT
Some people seal their figures with watered down white glue. It dries clear. Kids can eat it without harm. When my floor wax is gone, i will just use white glue.
|
|