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Post by rahway on May 30, 2019 10:02:35 GMT
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Post by rahway on Jun 4, 2019 0:44:51 GMT
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Post by rahway on Jul 9, 2019 13:00:03 GMT
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Post by jimmn on Jul 13, 2019 17:39:24 GMT
It would be nice to find some mounted US cavalry and Apache and Sioux mounted figures.
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Post by leswhite on Jul 13, 2019 18:56:45 GMT
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Post by jimmn on Jul 13, 2019 20:07:07 GMT
Les, those look very nice. thanks.
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Post by jimmn on Jul 13, 2019 21:49:03 GMT
Les,
I have been buying AIP and would like to stick with them for my collection. AIP does not seem to make mounted US, Sioux or Apache figures, but they do have cossacks, dervishes and several kinds of lancers. Do you think i could convert any of them?
In a pinch, i can use some figures as dismounted cavalry, such as rough riders or US troops from the Boxer Rebellion. But I think mounted cavalry would be better.
AIP are affordable and i already have six sets. What i really like about them is the box. Slice the lid, tape the sides, and you have nice labelled container for storage, transport, or display.
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Post by leswhite on Jul 14, 2019 9:58:06 GMT
I have been looking at this same issue for sometime. The AIP Rough Riders are the best starting point for dismounted Cavalry ,as they already have a carbine that looks similar to the one of the period and you could probably get away with just painting the leggings as boots, although they would be better remodelled. For mounted versions it is possible to do torso swaps with AIP cavalry, but this has some issues - the fit of the waist and what is moulded onto the lower part of the rider. The Crimean War British Cavalry sets would seem like a good starting point especially the Lancers and Dragoons, both have short jackets and next to no horse furniture. It is a modelling project and will get Cavalry with the same 'look', even to the extant that you could have foot and mounted versions of the same figure - a single box of Rough Riders will give you 1 officer, Flag bearer and 8 troopers and 2 boxes of one of the mounted sets will give you enough for mounted versions. You will have mounted torsos and Rough rider legs leftover for future conversions. So three sets gets you a 10 figure unit, which should be enough for a good Skirmish game. I have a mounted cavalry man modelled wearing a jacket, using an AIP Egyptian Lancer with a new head and arm and plan on doing dismounted cavalry in jackets too. I have worked out I can use Egyptian Infantry torsos on Rough Rider legs. I would like to do some 'Buffalo Soldiers' from the movie which are all wearing the older issue jackets with yellow piping. I'll post the pic of the conversion when I find it in my files. For native types this is more problematic. For Apaches the head is the issue, with the long hair and head scarf, the closest head in an AIP set is in the Spanish American War Spanish Infantry, but you only get two figures with it in a set. So modelling a new head would be required, it is not too difficult with green stuff but if you haven't done it before it will take a bit of practice, this is where your bag of 'Army men' comes into play ,try your modelling techniques on these cheap figures first, some of the AIRFIX figures, particularly the British Commandos have excellent heads for adding new hats and hairstyles onto and if you check the size first you will find some are ideal matches to AIP size. For Apache bodies you could use Dervishes - warriors and riflemen, but they will need some adaption of dress and the apaches iconic soft boots modelled on and breachclout cloth. For mounted version the Dervishes should work with the same adaptions. This will be a modelling project however so may be more work than you are willing to do. Rough Riders with Apache heads will get you Cavalry Scouts and Apache Police. I have two Apaches on my work table at the moment ,so I'll post a couple of pics when I've finished them and give you more details on what I did to get the end result. AIP woodland Indians with new hair styles and some trimming of the fringing on their leggings might work, although haven't studied it yet. Apaches have been made by GUNG HO and REPLICANTS too, but I'm not sure on availability of them at the moment. The GUNG HO figures are quite small with only a couple of poses being the same size as AIP. REPLICANTS have quite a few poses but they are a little more expensive and not easily available in the USA. For Souix , I can't really see an easy to adapt set by AIP. Some of the Fuzzy Wuzzy torsos might work on different legs, depending on whether you want classic bare torso types or winter clothed versions. AIP woodland Indians might be adaptable with different hairstyles, but I can't think of suitable mounted legs at the moment. Until you find something better I would start with the cheap knock off Airfix figures, I'm sure you have some in your cheap bags of army men and then you can add better quality ones as we work out what can be used from the AIP range. Just to get your games started  I think sticking with AIP is a good idea ,as they are easy to get, always have special deals on ,if you get them direct off their website, and have the most consistency of size over the range. |
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Post by leswhite on Jul 14, 2019 10:20:41 GMT
Here is the starting point for my US cavalry wearing Jacket, mounted version.
Egyptian Lancer body with Boxer Rebellion US Marine head and arm from a RCW Russian Officer. Still need some finishing work - saddle bags and bedroll. 
For the dismounted version I'll use Egyptian Infantry with adapted legs and heads from the Boxer Rebellion US Marines or Rough Riders.
I'm also looking at great coated cavalry using the NEW figures ONLY artillery sets, the ACW guys in greatcoats would be a great way of getting some winter types. Obviously a little more modelling to get the various action poses but I don't see any big issues, for mounted version I'm thinking their torsos will fit on Cossack legs, who already have long coats.
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Post by jimmn on Jul 14, 2019 12:00:54 GMT
Les, those are all great ideas. Since I lack skills and aptitude, the easiest conversions are all that I dare attempt. Your photo of the Egyption cavalry with US Boxer head looks like something I might be able to do. But I might stick with the original arm, because i think the cav would dismount before shooting.
What kind of glue do you prefer? I have some E stuff and super glue and regular plastic model glue.
Yesterday I noticed AIP has all of its prices marked down to $8.95. That is a good deal.
The Woodland Indians idea is interesting. I will look more closely at them. In the old paintings, some of the Sioux carried lances so maybe I can use lancer bodies.
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Post by leswhite on Jul 15, 2019 10:37:34 GMT
jimmn,
I agree that conversions can be quite a daunting task if you are not yet used to modelling, I have been doing it for about 50 years so I forget how much of an effort it can be
Head swaps are the easiest to change the overall 'look' of the figure and the neck cut can usually follow a line already established on the figures casting. I would suggest that you get a box od 'Dressmakers pins', the type you normally find inside a new shirt when you buy a wrapped one. These pins are very useful for making a good connection between the two parts to be fixed and will give the glue something to bond with. So once you have cut the head off, using pliers push the pin into the centre of the neck by at least 10mm, leave 20 - 30mm showing and snip off the length of the pin. Now take the new head and using its' centre, line it up carefully, apply a little pressure then a little more, you may have to slightly rotate the head as you push it down and when both parts meet check the alignment of the neck. Now you have a dry connection and you can see if you are happy with the fit. Once happy slightly prise the pieces apart, but not fully, apply a little glue at the pin and then press the two pieces back together and hold them for a minute or two to give the glue time to do it's business. Wipe off any excess glue while it is still wet, DON'T STICK YOUR FINGERS TOGETHER!!!!! Leave the figure to one side to make sure the glue is fully cured by the time you want to undercoat and paint it.
Regarding glue, I've tried many types over the eyars and really none are completely acceptable for the soft plastic used by Toy Soldier makers, PE and other polythene based plastics are NOT glueable with superglue according to the instructions on their packets, this is where the pin works to help the bond. I'm currently using LOCTITE brand Super glue 'Gel', as it fills gaps as it sets and the hardened excess can be trimmed off to give a neat joint. Not sure this brand is available in the USA, Regular plastic glue for kits, doesn't work well. You may just have to do some trial and error work. GORRILLA Brand glue is NOT SUITABLE !
AIP always have some good deal on the go, so I would highlight their website and go on regularly to see what is on offer.
Since head swaps are preferable to you at the moment might I suggest that you try a couple of sets of the 'AIP Crimean War British Dragoons' as a generic cavalry body. The casting has a short jacket with short tails, cross straps and campaign equipment, water bottle and haversack. They are sword armed apart from the bugler. By trimming the coat tails off, not a big effort as it sounds and the two rows of buttons on the jacket front you have a figure wearing basically a shell jacket. Once the head is removed the body can be used in many ways - 
Rough Rider head gets you US Plains Cavalry with sabres.
Kepi head from the Berdan Sharpshooters gets you ACW Union or Confederate cavalry.
Confederate slouch hat heads gets you ACW Confederate cavalry.
Napoleonic Prussian Militia peaked cap heads gets you US Dragoons for the Mexican American War or early Indian Wars.
There are many other variations that will get you Colonial types as the shell jacket was popular throughout the 1830s - 1880s by most armies around the world. You just need to do a bit of research on the internet or books to work out what differences their are between the units dress.
The saddlery is quite basic too so can be cut and trimmed to various shapes to change the look to something closer to what it might have looked like, it is also the base should you wish to add any other bags or bedrolls on at some stage.
The covered shako heads that will be left over can be altered by carving into various other shako shapes at a later date when you are becoming more confident with your modelling skills.
Check out some pics of the AIP Woodland Indians online and compare them to illustrations of the SOUIX, there are some similarities. The woodland guys may have a little too much equipment slung round them and they have too many shooting poses to have useful bodies to put on horses. CTS have a set of mounted SOUIX Indians, but no foot versions which may be worth checking out.
Hope this all helps. I apologise for the length of the post but it does take time to fully explain a technique.
If you need any other modelling advise just ask, I'm happy to help if I can.
Best regards,
Les
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Post by jimmn on Jul 15, 2019 13:50:24 GMT
Les, thanks for the info. You are a good teacher.
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Post by leswhite on Jul 15, 2019 19:09:36 GMT
Thanks for the vote of confidence.
To continue your education I would recommend that you go onto this blog site by Scott Lesch, another person that can't leave a plastic figure in one piece and an ace convertor.
ilikethethingsilike.blogspot.com/
Take your time and surf through the entire site for excellent AIP conversions and ideas of what can be achieved with parts from the full ranges available. From simple head swaps to fully painted figures. I think you will find it very interesting and will certainly give you some insight in to being able to start producing exactly what you want to fill gaps in your games scenarios.
You will also see some ideas for scenery, if you study the background of some of the picture setups. He gets good use out of the BMC French Farmhouse by altering it slightly and basing it on an elevated plinth. The BMC building is part ruined ,damaged walls and roof, but it does have a first story level to stand figure on. With a little thought it could be converted into a undamaged building and some of the walls can be clipped together differently for slight variation. They also produce a DUNKER CHURCH, Meads' headquarters building from Gettysburg and Lee's HQ Building from Gettysburg. These are useful to add to scenarios and in fact Meade's HQ ,being a typical homestead building can be grouped together to make a small hamlet or end of town. These buildings are not expensive and are quite easy to find on Ebay and at some of the Internet stores online. 
Here are some conversions of the Meade building from Scotts' Blog to show you what they could look like on a game board. Pretty versatile building. The White building at the right is the original configuration.
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Post by jhonpog on Jul 17, 2019 4:02:46 GMT
Les, thanks for the info. You are a good teacher. yes second that love the stuff you do Les! |
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