Rules for Medieval period

Hi Alan,

Mike and I have used Flower of Chivalry by the Canadian Wargames Group. We fought the Battle of Tewkesbury in 28mm and really enjoyed the rules. We've also used Never Mind the Billhooks but both preferred FOC. I have a copy of the Medieval version of Shambattle but haven't played it yet-it's not a serious simulation!!

Cheers
Anthony

Hi Alan,

I have Chitson's Chivalry but have never played it. As I love grid-based games I would like to give it a go someday. I would also happily use the PWG rules, but I have to say that many ancient/medieval rules end up making medieval games feel like ancient games; the great thing about Flower of Chivalry is its command and control rules which give a real period feel to the game. While there is a better than 50% chance that units will do what you want them to do, there is always the risk that they might behave more aggressively (or more passively) than you would like, depending on the order they were given. The rules are short and simple but have tremendous period flavour.

Hi Nick,

Yes, I have used Lion Rampant with both Mike and Brian in the distant past. Great set of rules, no fiddly mechanics and very streamlined movement rules. Due to the activation system however, it is possible not to be able to activate any of your units in any given turn which isn't funny when it happens to you! This aspect of the 'Rampant' system was changed for later period rules (e.g. The Men Who Would Be Kings) to make it more likely that at least some of your units will get to activate. I would say Lion Rampant is more abstract than Flower of Chivalry, but it is certainly very playable.

Cheers
Anthony

My rules are heavily influenced by Chainmail and Warhammer. The difference is I use 12 sided dice and a table showing troop types. The D12 score needed in melee includes reference to armour so there is no need for a separate armour save. A leadership test is also made to go facilitate a charge but my knights need a leadership test to NOT charge in!
My classes of troops includes: peasants, light, heavy (meaning breast plate and helmet or similar rather than plate knights), complete chainmail, 'Viking' which is a class rather than necessarily actual Vikings of big hairy guys who are super warriors - they have higher initiative than the heavy and knight classes but only heavy armour, light and heavy mounted as well as mounted plate armour and foot plate armour. There are additional factors for fanatics and certain weapons. Two handed axes have plus two on the result but go last except where they have just charged in. Except for troops having just charged in initiative value determines who goes first in melee. I count the first two rows except for spearmen and pikes where three ranks fight. Also overlapping figures of one figure each side and supporting rear attack fight also. Shock additions for some troops such as cavalry also come into it. Cavalry can counter attack other cavalry if the enemy charge starts more than half move away. Ranks extra after the first two ranks and up to four give a point extra to combat resolution. So too can flags and musical instruments (optional). The winner of a round of combat pushes back the enemy by 20cm. This can be a disadvantage to the winner if the enemy are pushed back to the enemy forces. The victor can elect not to push back if it passes a leadership test. When a unit gets down to 50% (or whatever figure you set) a morale test is made and if failed the unit retreats until rallied.
Heroes or leaders attached to units can give their leadership to the unit provided they are in the front rank. They get two to three attacks and  they have two or three wounds. As they lose wounds they lose attacks equivalent. In a campaign they may also have two or three lives. So loss of a life is really the figure is badly wounded or unconscious and can not partake in the next battle but can in the one after that one, unless they were captured, which occurs if they were in enemy territory and the enemy won the battle.
If I have a lot of creatures as well as humans I revert, in part, to Warhammer melee tables that allow for different strengths and toughnesses.
For shooting I have a table which refers to weapon type and target armour. Crossbows and firearms are better able to penetrate armour.
Because my games tend to include sword and sorcery type I also use the Warhammer rules for spell casting.
At the beginning of a campaign I determine, by dice rolling the abilities of heroes and commanders, so some commanders are cautious whilst others are bold. Some are more loyal etc. The loyalty degree is important because if captured they may change sides. Some leaders are also especially cruel so they may slaughter POWS pretty quickly rather than use them as slave labour.

JohnY, OHW are great rules; I have enjoyed every game I've played with them irrespective of the period. I'm pretty sure there are very few examples of elements of medieval armies rallying back for another go-usually once a unit/army broke that was it, so I think OHW have it right in that respect.

Cheers
Anthony

Quantrilltoy, would love to see your charts and any rules you have written down.

I'm keen to try Never Mind the Billhooks as the demonstration videos make it seem like a game I'd enjoy, plus having recently read The White Company I've got some battle scenarios in mind. Now just need to source the figures...